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Introduction |
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Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in
Nepal, which is climbable by people without
mountaineering experience. It is situated on
the edge of the famous Khumbu region, which
is dominated by Mount Everest. Although very
high, Mera is a straightforward climb and is
frequently ascended by groups and
individuals whose only climbing
qualifications are that they are fit and
have an out-going sense of adventure.
This special expedition to Mera is designed
for those who only have three working weeks'
holiday time available. The first fourteen
days take us south from the airstrip at
Lukla, trekking through beautiful forested
hillsides and over several passes before
climbing up to the Mera La. After the climb,
we descend directly to Lukla via the Zatrwa
La pass.
The Mera Expedition is a high-altitude trek
and climb and participants need to be fit
and conversant with the use of an ice-axe
and crampons. Instruction in the use of
these will be given at our base camp near
the Mera La if required. In good conditions
it is possible for a fit party to reach the
summit and return to base camp in one day.
It is normal, however, to establish a
high-camp at 19,000ft/5,800m on the Mera
Glacier, in order to shorten the summit day.
This is a rewarding experience as it
provides glorious views of Nepal and a vista
that takes in Kangchenjunga and Makalu to
the east and Everest appearing over the
massive southern aspect of Nuptse and Lhotse
to the north. To the west stand the spires
of Ama Dablam and Kang Taiga and in the
distance is the mighty bastion of Cho Oyu.
This is a fine panorama of many of the
world's highest peaks.
The climb itself takes the north face
glacier in a steady rise to the summit ridge
which leads, in an exposed and exciting
situation, to the top. After the mountain
has been climbed, we return by a direct
route across a dramatic ridge to Lukla and
the flight to Kathmandu.
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Expedition Summary |
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Our expedition to Mera Peak is a complete
Nepalese mountaineering adventure. We avoid
the usual route to the mountain as we prefer
to follow a more
esoteric, wilderness trek than that used by
others. Our trek to the foot of the mountain
takes us through the Nepalese countryside,
visiting remote farming communities before
crossing steep valleys and then following a
high ridge, with magnificent views, towards
our final goal.
However, we have not just chosen this route
for the views and to provide you with an
enhanced cultural experience. The route we
follow allows for a far better rate of
acclimatisation than the rapid ascent from
Lukla and over the high pass of the Zatrwa
La inherent in the average expedition
schedule. The benefits offered by our route
have been proven many times since 1993 when
we ran our first trip to Mera; our teams
repeatedly achieve a high rate of success on
the mountain, as they are better prepared in
terms of acclimatisation and fitness. We
also think that our team members value the
relative solitude of our trek as this lends
itself far better to an enriching wilderness
experience. It is by far the best route to
the mountain.
Since we began operations to the world's
greatest mountains, we have continually
monitored the performance of our expeditions
and the conditions that each team has
encountered once in country and on the
mountain. This extends to every aspect of
our operations, from the format of the
pre-expedition weekend to the conditions of
employment for our locally enrolled staff,
including Sherpas and porters.
Following a review in 1998, we extended the
itinerary by two further days. This was for
two reasons. Firstly, it allows us to match
the dates for the expedition to the flight
schedules offered by Qatar Airlines without
increasing the number of working weeks
infringed upon by taking part in the trip.
Using Qatar represents a significant change
and an improvement to the Nepal flight's
service that we have offered in the past.
The previous airline we used provided the
only direct flight to Kathmandu but it was
becoming increasingly unreliable; every
expedition in one previous season left
London late by several hours resulting in
lost days on the main part of the
expedition. The decision was made,
therefore, to change airlines for the
majority of our trips to Nepal. Not only has
Qatar proved to be more reliable and
efficient but the standard of in-flight
service also represents a significant
enhancement on what was being offered
before. The second advantage of lengthening
the itinerary is that we can provide an even
better day-to-day itinerary for the
expedition. This gives the team greater
flexibility in case of adverse weather and
allows for a better chance of reaching the
summit should such conditions persist.
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Expedition Route Details |
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Day 1: Fly London to Kathmandu |
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Our flight to Nepal departs London Heathrow
at 8.0pm |
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Day 2: Arrive Kathmandu |
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We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a delightful garden hotel situated
away from the bustle of the city centre. It
is possible to hire bicycles here, which
enable the shops and bazaars of the city
centre to be reached in 10 minutes or so. |
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Day 3: Fly to Lukla |
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We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the
Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our
flight, we will get our first views of
Everest and the region in which we will be
climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take
us to the hillside village of Lukla, which
is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we
will meet our camp staff and porters and set
off straight away for our first camp at
Poyan. |
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Day 4: Trek to Pangkongma |
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After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming
up from the south and join an older route
which climbs to the ridge-line overlooking
the Khare Khola. Descending the other side
of the ridge-line, we then contour along the
hillside before climbing steadily up to the
attractive farming and trading village on
Pangkongma. Many expedition members have
been made welcome by the villagers here,
spending several pleasant hours warming
themselves in front of an open fire in the
enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the
local’s traditional Sherpa homes. |
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Day 5: Trek to Nashing Dingma. |
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With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastry and Lamjura, we
climb through thick rhododendron forest and
bamboo leading the Pangkongma La. From
here, we have good views of the south face
of Mera with its twin peaks and of its
neighbour Naulekh. We then make a scenic
descent with beautiful views looking south
across the endless foothills rising each
side of the Hinku valley. This descent
leads down to the wire rope bridge that
spans the Hinku Khola. A steep, strenuous
climb on the opposite side, leads to Nashing
Dingma. We stay here for the night at the
excellent campsite established by the Makalu
National Park. |
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Day 6: Trek to Chalem Kharka |
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Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail
steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It
is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of
tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking
on, eventually, we reach an attractive
campsite below point 3,609 at Chalem Kharka,
set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes. |
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Day 7: Trek to Panch Pokari (4,400m /
14,500ft) |
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Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of
rhododendron and the terrain becomes more
rugged. Passing through high grazing
country and crossing a small pass, we are
treated to some excellent views of
Kanchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We
continue climbing around 14,500ft / 4,400m
where we camp on the banks of a lake. This
is known as Panch Pokari. |
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Day 8: Acclimatisation and rest day |
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As Panch Pokari is a special place with religious significance for
Sherpas and Hindus alike, we spend a day at
rest. Whether you take it easy and relax,
or scramble some of the nearby rocky
outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a
useful aid to acclimatisation. |
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Day 9: Trek to Mosom Kharka |
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Walking on to Chunba Kharka, we contour around the main Hinku valley
before making a series of steep descents
through scree and then rhododendron. We
eventually arrive on the valley floor and
walk north through ancient forests. We camp
by the river 2km short of Mosom Kharka. |
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Day 10: Trek to Tangnag |
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Today, we walk to Tangnag. The head of the valley is dominated by a
magnificent, towering mountain, rather
inappropriately and unimaginatively known by
its survey name of Peak 39. The trail leads
easily and steadily up the valley through
open pasture, used for the summer grazing of
yaks brought up from the lower reaches of
the valley. Finally, we reach Tangnag which
has grown into a small hamlet of tea shops
and a lodge since expeditions first started
to frequent this region of Nepal. |
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Day 11: Trek to Dig Kharka |
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We now walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east. We
gain height gradually until we find
ourselves at Dig Kharka close to the foot of
the Hinku Nup Glacier. |
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Day 12: Acclimatisation and exploration
day. |
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This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile exploration trip
towards the glacier. It is best to keep the
afternoon free for checking crampons and
sorting out equipment in preparation for our
first walk on the ice, as we cross the Mera
glacier tomorrow. |
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Day 13: Climb to the Mera La. |
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This is an acclimatisation day, offering a
worthwhile trip onto the glacier (5,100m).
An "ecole de glace" will provide members
with the opportunity to brush up on their
cramponing and ice axe technique. We will
have our first day on snow tomorrow as we
cross the Mera La. |
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Day 14: Acclimatisation and training day. |
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This is another acclimatisation day (at
5,300m), in final preparation for the climb
tomorrow. Not only do we acclimatise
further, we use the day to best advantage
with a snow and ice training session on the
snout of the glacier that descends from the
Mera La. This "ecole de glace" provides
essential skills training in the use of ice
axe and crampons in readiness for the climb. |
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Day 15: Climb to High Camp (5,800m /
19,028ft) |
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Today, we make the climb to the high camp.
This is located at about 5,800 metres on the
Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It
provides an excellent launch pad for the
final climb to the summit. There is no need
to make an early start but we must get our
equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help
with carrying this and the camp stores to
the high camp. Having gained the Mera La,
the route turns left (south) and follows
easy angled snow slopes. After a short
distance an area of crevasses is reached.
Under normal conditions these can be walked
around very easily, although looking into
their deep, dark depths is always
impressive. The crevasses soon give way to
slightly steeper but open snow slopes that
lead without difficulty to the high camp.
This camp is in an excellent setting with
wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the
Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The
setting sun casts an unbelievably magic
light on these awesome mountains. |
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Day 16: Summit Day (6,476m/21,246ft) |
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The climb to the summit of Mera starts
gradually and much will depend on snow and
general weather conditions. The central
summit will soon appear above the head of a
wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb
the centre of this over open snowfields and
avoiding crevasses. The route then swings
south-east, skirting below and to the east
of the left-hand ridge before turning back
rightwards towards the main summit ridge of
Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the
highest is our objective. We reach this by
following a classic snow-ridge to just below
the final wall that guards the top. This
short steep snow slope is easily climbed but
there is a big effort required to climb this
last 50 metres. Your reward, however, is a
feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey
the magnificent panorama from the top. After
taking pictures and enjoying the view, we
descend by the same route back to our
campsite below the Mera La. |
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Day 17: Spare Day |
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This is a spare day to allow for bad weather
or for additional summit attempts. |
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Day 18-21: Return trek to Lukla |
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The direct route back to Lukla can be
comfortably achieved in 4 days. It crosses
the exciting Zatrwa La pass (4,600m) before
descending steeply into the Dudh Kosi valley
and to Lukla. The pass gives plenty of
opportunities for photographing the dramatic
peaks around Mera. On arrival in Lukla we
can relax, visit tea shops and bars, and
prepare for tomorrow's flight to Kathmandu. |
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Day 22: Return flight to Kathmandu |
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The hair-raising take-off is followed by a
45 minute flight back to Kathmandu, where we
arrive in the morning. Here we will be taken
to the familiar Summit Hotel and its
welcoming hospitality. The afternoon is free
to get cleaned up and take a trip into
Kathmandu, before the group's final evening
meal together at one of the restaurants in
the city. |
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Day 23: At Leisure in Kathmandu |
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After a day of sightseeing and shopping, we
have a late evening departure from
Kathmandu. |
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Day 24: Return flight to London |
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We arrive back at London Heathrow
mid-morning. |
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Mera Peak Altitude Profile |
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