Himalayas 2000 Itinerary

 

Click here for larger image

 

Introduction
 
Mera Peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, which is climbable by people without mountaineering experience. It is situated on the edge of the famous Khumbu region, which is dominated by Mount Everest. Although very high, Mera is a straightforward climb and is frequently ascended by groups and individuals whose only climbing qualifications are that they are fit and have an out-going sense of adventure.

This special expedition to Mera is designed for those who only have three working weeks' holiday time available. The first fourteen days take us south from the airstrip at Lukla, trekking through beautiful forested hillsides and over several passes before climbing up to the Mera La. After the climb, we descend directly to Lukla via the Zatrwa La pass.

The Mera Expedition is a high-altitude trek and climb and participants need to be fit and conversant with the use of an ice-axe and crampons. Instruction in the use of these will be given at our base camp near the Mera La if required. In good conditions it is possible for a fit party to reach the summit and return to base camp in one day. It is normal, however, to establish a high-camp at 19,000ft/5,800m on the Mera Glacier, in order to shorten the summit day. This is a rewarding experience as it provides glorious views of Nepal and a vista that takes in Kangchenjunga and Makalu to the east and Everest appearing over the massive southern aspect of Nuptse and Lhotse to the north. To the west stand the spires of Ama Dablam and Kang Taiga and in the distance is the mighty bastion of Cho Oyu. This is a fine panorama of many of the world's highest peaks.

The climb itself takes the north face glacier in a steady rise to the summit ridge which leads, in an exposed and exciting situation, to the top. After the mountain has been climbed, we return by a direct route across a dramatic ridge to Lukla and the flight to Kathmandu.

 
Expedition Summary
 
Our expedition to Mera Peak is a complete Nepalese mountaineering adventure. We avoid the usual route to the mountain as we prefer to follow a more esoteric, wilderness trek than that used by others. Our trek to the foot of the mountain takes us through the Nepalese countryside, visiting remote farming communities before crossing steep valleys and then following a high ridge, with magnificent views, towards our final goal.

However, we have not just chosen this route for the views and to provide you with an enhanced cultural experience. The route we follow allows for a far better rate of acclimatisation than the rapid ascent from Lukla and over the high pass of the Zatrwa La inherent in the average expedition schedule. The benefits offered by our route have been proven many times since 1993 when we ran our first trip to Mera; our teams repeatedly achieve a high rate of success on the mountain, as they are better prepared in terms of acclimatisation and fitness. We also think that our team members value the relative solitude of our trek as this lends itself far better to an enriching wilderness experience. It is by far the best route to the mountain.

Since we began operations to the world's greatest mountains, we have continually monitored the performance of our expeditions and the conditions that each team has encountered once in country and on the mountain. This extends to every aspect of our operations, from the format of the pre-expedition weekend to the conditions of employment for our locally enrolled staff, including Sherpas and porters.

Following a review in 1998, we extended the itinerary by two further days. This was for two reasons. Firstly, it allows us to match the dates for the expedition to the flight schedules offered by Qatar Airlines without increasing the number of working weeks infringed upon by taking part in the trip. Using Qatar represents a significant change and an improvement to the Nepal flight's service that we have offered in the past. The previous airline we used provided the only direct flight to Kathmandu but it was becoming increasingly unreliable; every expedition in one previous season left London late by several hours resulting in lost days on the main part of the expedition. The decision was made, therefore, to change airlines for the majority of our trips to Nepal. Not only has Qatar proved to be more reliable and efficient but the standard of in-flight service also represents a significant enhancement on what was being offered before. The second advantage of lengthening the itinerary is that we can provide an even better day-to-day itinerary for the expedition. This gives the team greater flexibility in case of adverse weather and allows for a better chance of reaching the summit should such conditions persist.

 
Expedition Route Details
 
Day 1:     Fly London to Kathmandu
 
Our flight to Nepal departs London Heathrow at 8.0pm
 
Day 2:     Arrive Kathmandu
 
We will be taken to the Summit Hotel, a delightful garden hotel situated away from the bustle of the city centre.  It is possible to hire bicycles here, which enable the shops and bazaars of the city centre to be reached in 10 minutes or so.
 
Day 3:     Fly to Lukla
 
We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya.  If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing.  The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera.  Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Poyan.
 
Day 4:     Trek to Pangkongma
 
After crossing the Poyan Khola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route which climbs to the ridge-line overlooking the Khare Khola.  Descending the other side of the ridge-line, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village on Pangkongma.  Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local’s traditional Sherpa homes.
 
Day 5:     Trek to Nashing Dingma.
 
With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastry and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading the Pangkongma La.  From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbour Naulekh.  We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley.  This descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the Hinku Khola.  A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side, leads to Nashing Dingma.  We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park.
 
Day 6:     Trek to Chalem Kharka
 
Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La.  It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass.  Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite below point 3,609 at Chalem Kharka, set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.
 
Day 7:     Trek to Panch Pokari (4,400m / 14,500ft)
 
Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged.  Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kanchenjunga and Jannu to the east.  We continue climbing around 14,500ft / 4,400m where we camp on the banks of a lake.  This is known as Panch Pokari.
 
Day 8:     Acclimatisation and rest day
 
As Panch Pokari is a special place with religious significance for Sherpas and Hindus alike, we spend a day at rest.  Whether you take it easy and relax, or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a useful aid to acclimatisation.
 
Day 9:     Trek to Mosom Kharka
 
Walking on to Chunba Kharka, we contour around the main Hinku valley before making a series of steep descents through scree and then rhododendron.  We eventually arrive on the valley floor and walk north through ancient forests.  We camp by the river 2km short of Mosom Kharka.
 
Day 10:   Trek to Tangnag
 
Today, we walk to Tangnag.  The head of the valley is dominated by a magnificent, towering mountain, rather inappropriately and unimaginatively known by its survey name of Peak 39.  The trail leads easily and steadily up the valley through open pasture, used for the summer grazing of yaks brought up from the lower reaches of the valley.  Finally, we reach Tangnag which has grown into a small hamlet of tea shops and a lodge since expeditions first started to frequent this region of Nepal.
 
Day 11:   Trek to Dig Kharka
 
We now walk towards the mountain as the trail swings to the east.  We gain height gradually until we find ourselves at Dig Kharka close to the foot of the Hinku Nup Glacier.
 
Day 12:   Acclimatisation and exploration day.
 
This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile exploration trip towards the glacier.  It is best to keep the afternoon free for checking crampons and sorting out equipment in preparation for our first walk on the ice, as we cross the Mera glacier tomorrow.
 
Day 13:   Climb to the Mera La.
 
This is an acclimatisation day, offering a worthwhile trip onto the glacier (5,100m). An "ecole de glace" will provide members with the opportunity to brush up on their cramponing and ice axe technique. We will have our first day on snow tomorrow as we cross the Mera La.
 
Day 14:   Acclimatisation and training day.
 
This is another acclimatisation day (at 5,300m), in final preparation for the climb tomorrow. Not only do we acclimatise further, we use the day to best advantage with a snow and ice training session on the snout of the glacier that descends from the Mera La. This "ecole de glace" provides essential skills training in the use of ice axe and crampons in readiness for the climb.
 
Day 15:   Climb to High Camp (5,800m / 19,028ft)
 
Today, we make the climb to the high camp. This is located at about 5,800 metres on the Northern slopes of the upper mountain. It provides an excellent launch pad for the final climb to the summit. There is no need to make an early start but we must get our equipment ready so that the Sherpas can help with carrying this and the camp stores to the high camp. Having gained the Mera La, the route turns left (south) and follows easy angled snow slopes. After a short distance an area of crevasses is reached. Under normal conditions these can be walked around very easily, although looking into their deep, dark depths is always impressive. The crevasses soon give way to slightly steeper but open snow slopes that lead without difficulty to the high camp. This camp is in an excellent setting with wonderful views of Everest, Makalu and the Nuptse, Lhotse wall directly ahead. The setting sun casts an unbelievably magic light on these awesome mountains.
 
Day 16:   Summit Day (6,476m/21,246ft)
 
The climb to the summit of Mera starts gradually and much will depend on snow and general weather conditions. The central summit will soon appear above the head of a wide glacier flanked by two ridges. We climb the centre of this over open snowfields and avoiding crevasses. The route then swings south-east, skirting below and to the east of the left-hand ridge before turning back rightwards towards the main summit ridge of Mera. Mera actually has three summits; the highest is our objective. We reach this by following a classic snow-ridge to just below the final wall that guards the top. This short steep snow slope is easily climbed but there is a big effort required to climb this last 50 metres. Your reward, however, is a feeling of ecstatic jubilation as you survey the magnificent panorama from the top. After taking pictures and enjoying the view, we descend by the same route back to our campsite below the Mera La.
 
Day 17:   Spare Day
 
This is a spare day to allow for bad weather or for additional summit attempts.
 
Day 18-21:        Return trek to Lukla
 
The direct route back to Lukla can be comfortably achieved in 4 days. It crosses the exciting Zatrwa La pass (4,600m) before descending steeply into the Dudh Kosi valley and to Lukla. The pass gives plenty of opportunities for photographing the dramatic peaks around Mera. On arrival in Lukla we can relax, visit tea shops and bars, and prepare for tomorrow's flight to Kathmandu.
 
Day 22:   Return flight to Kathmandu
 
The hair-raising take-off is followed by a 45 minute flight back to Kathmandu, where we arrive in the morning. Here we will be taken to the familiar Summit Hotel and its welcoming hospitality. The afternoon is free to get cleaned up and take a trip into Kathmandu, before the group's final evening meal together at one of the restaurants in the city.
 
Day 23:   At Leisure in Kathmandu
 
After a day of sightseeing and shopping, we have a late evening departure from Kathmandu.
 
Day 24:   Return flight to London
 
We arrive back at London Heathrow mid-morning.
 
Mera Peak Altitude Profile
 

               
   
         
               
 
 

  [ Home ]  [ Go To Top ]  [ Website Disclaimer ]
  Copyright © 499squadron.com